What kind of board do you ride and why do you ride it?

[Sea Geezer]

After riding the 10-0 Velzy for a month I have become spoiled. I no longer enjoy the 9-0 or even the 9-4 but switch between the Velzy and a 9-10 Dick Brewer 5-stringered pintail that kinda has that ginsu feel. The Velzy gets the call most days due to over all fun factor in a variety of conditions. You wanna talk glide?

[Haoleboy]

Sounds like a sweet baby SG! I'm riding a 9'4" that is great for the juicier days, but I really want a macker for the smaller days. I've got a guitar up for sale right now so's I can pick up a 10'6" or 11"... That glide is something else!!

[Sea Geezer]

I been thinkin' the exact same thing. (Except for the whole sell the guitar part)

[DST]

I just got this board converted from a single fin to a 2+1 fin set up. It improved the ride quite a bit. I had been having problems with the fin sliding out and although I really wanted to ride it as a single, the added forward side bites, Merrick FCS template, increased hold, drive and manuverability more than twofold. What impresses me about this board is that you dont really have to push it to get it going. Maybe somthing to do with the flatter bottom and not too much rocker. Ive never had a board that I can just flow with like I can with this board. Looking forward to seeing how far I can take this board, then maybe shape another one similar with a few refinements.

[Haoleboy]

Now THAT...is a beautiful board.

[DST]

thanks HB,

YOu might be tired of seeing it, as I have posted it on other threads, but Ive been really having a ball with it. Im so glad I did the thing with the FCS plugs as I was on the verge of selling it before the conversion. Heard theres gonna be a south swell in a day or two...Awooooooooo!!!

[Rastro]

Ride this homemade deck 'round the hood to stay loose.
Homemade indo board works too.

[Haoleboy]

At first glance I thought it was a longboard, and was tripping on the grooves on the deck!:laugh: Some kind of wierd speed channels or something?
Doh!

[Kahunanui]

Hi all, newbie here. Just thought I'd join the chat. Surfing for 32years current quiver 8' Nat Young, 9' Bic,10' Bic, 10' Mick Dooley, 10'6" Mick Doloey Noserider.

I generally hover between the 10'Bic and 10'6" Noserider.

looking at Hybrids at the moment although was quite taken by a 11' Mickey Munoz.

Local spots Northern Beaches of Sydney.

[Haoleboy]

Howzit Kahunanui! How do you like the Bic's? Wondered how they rode....

[Kahunanui]

Eh, Haoleboy, not sure if you got my message because I'm new to posting not just on this board but any board.

Generally surf traditional rather than modern although I do get carried away at times. I look for a board that allows the best glide and turn ratio. Bics especially the 10' Bob Pearson model seems to have that.

But I'm open to other types of boards just for the exerience. my Dooley's have a place of pride in my quiver because Mick doesn't shape anymore so I feel quite priviledged to have 2 of his boards. They get better care than most things in the house.

When I work out hoe top send pics I'll include some.

[mollydooka]

Started surfing in the late 60's on a Coolite, but unfortunately could count on one hand no. of surfs in the 80's, and had a heavy golf addiction until June this year, when I tried a 9' mal for the very first time on hols in Queensland. I'm converted! My 6'8" is still in the garage, and I still love it on the very rare occasions that I can get out of Perth to better quality waves, but seriously considering a Randy French Surftech 9'. It's an epoxy HP, narrower than a lot of mals at 21 3/4, tri-fin, and I know a lot of you guys out there reckon singles are the only way to go, but has anyone ridden one? What do you think of the Surftech/tuflites? Apparently Wingnut rides a 9'4" Robert August Surftech. Greetings from Perth, I'd luv to go to Hawaii, haven't been there since 1980. Aloha.

[Haoleboy]

I've been looking to try an epoxy out, but don't know anyone who has one. I always ask the guys out riding 'em how they're liking it, and it seems the surftechs are to corky for the juiceier days, but catch waves like mad. I'm still down with the old fashion boards myself, and love a good 2 plus 1 set up. My surf buddy rides a single and rips though...So many boards, so little time...

[Kahunanui]

I've ridden traditionl boards, epoxys, bics and very briefly a Surftech. Although the surftech is very boyant, similar to the Bic I found that I could get used to that quite quickly. I am currently looking at getting a 11 or 12 foot Mickey Munoz, givent that I am 6'3" and clock in at 98 kg, that size board is not so big.

Subsequently have found that I quite like
"floaty" boards.

Mostly surf single fins because I like the response that I get from them. Where I did like the three fin setup is on a Mctavish. haven't got one in the quiver (yet).

While I'm here I am looking to be in Hawai'i in November can anyone give me a clue to the general conditons to expect in Nov.

[Haoleboy]

November in Hawaii! Likely the North side will be on fire. The circus will be in full effect. Size of surf is likely to be head high to crazy over-the-top madness.
West side should be killer, East and South shores probably flat to head high.
The weather should be beautiful, although it may also rain a bit.
Be stoked to hook up for a surf when you get here.
ALOHA!

[Kahunanui]

Thanks for the info Haoleboy. Would be cool to link up. This will be the first time for me in island juice so what you're telling me is that it'll be cranking.

makes me a little anxious 'casue I'm currently trying to recover from a shoulder injury.

Any tips for getting into practice?

Mahalo for any ideas, Haoleboy.

[Haoleboy]

My advise would be not to try and tackle the North Shore if you're not in shape for it. Honestly, I don't head North myself much anymore. To much for me. Almost drowned there awhile back, and I took it as a sign. There will very likely be something smaller, but still fun, on another shore.
If you do want to hit the North side though, there are a few slightly more forgiving spots...Chuns, Turtle Bay..etc. Also, if it's not huge, alot more spots open up to the slightly out-of-shape guy.
If it's cranking, just standing on the beach watching the pipe guys do their thing is a pretty major stoke. And if yer bound and determend to ride the juice..start swimming lots, and practice holding your breath.

[Kahunanui]

I figured as much, although I don't like to admit to being out of shape I need to be reallistic. My fitness level is less of an issue than having to recover from this shoulder injury.

I also figure I can use November to scout the island out a bit and return for more fun and challenges.

Worst comes to worst I can always practice Hawaiian.

[DST]

Kahuna,

You can expect to find anything from fun to life threatening surf on the north shore during november. I myself am partial to smaller stuff so I usually wait for the big swells so subside to a more manageable level. Most spots on the north shore during the smaller swells are rather manageable for surfers not familiar with the north shore. For a first timer, like HB mentioned, Chuns, Turtle Bay, Haleiwa, Puaena Pt. might be spots to get accustomed Hawaiian waves. Its a good idea to check the forecasts to see if the waves may be on the rise, its not fun being out during a building swell and getting in over your head. Being cautious and using common sense should ensure your having a safe and fun time.

FD

[Kahunanui]

Thanks for the lowdown guys, much appreciated.

Surfing the east coast of Australia doesn't give the juice you guys get and I must admit the idea of serious size on the first trip is not that appealing.

I also don't want to be beached for the whole time either.

The other quesion is should I bring the board or hire one?

[joshkava]

Hey everyone, first time on here, got a question, though I may be asking it too late..


I was lucky enough to learn to surf on beautiful oahu, waikiki and some nice little beginner spot on the north shore (in the summer of course!). I was riding 10 and 11 foot soft boards there and was stoked to finally catch my own waves, do a little nose riding, etc...

I live on the north east, gonna be doing most of my surfing off long island. I just bought a board, an 8' walden magic, it's epoxy so it has a lot of float. I'm 6' 3", 205. For practical reasons I didn't buy a bigger board (my apt is tiny) and my friend from CA who is a big surfer said "YOU DON'T WANT A LONG BOARD".

Anyway, to make a long story longer, I was out on this thing for a couple of days in a full wetsuit (3/2) and the combination of a shorter, performanc-type board and being in the suit for the first time was just frustrating as hell! Should I trade this in for a 9 or a 9'6" or should I just suck it up and stick with it until I can used to it?

Mahalo for any advice!

[Haoleboy]

At 6'3"...I would councel a much bigger board to start your learning on. If you had , say, a 10' 6", around 3 and a 1/2 thick to even 3 and 1/4", you'd catch tons of waves, have fun, stand up, and as long as it's a good shape, turn and set trim easily. Yeah, yeah..I hear everyone screaming, "10'6"?!! That's crazy big!" But my friend who's exactly the same height and weight as you. surfs on one, gets great waves, surfs Kaisers and other hollow spots and rips on it. Then later if you wanted, (although a 10' 6" is a hell of a lot of fun!) you could try something shorter. I guess if space is a problem it could be a hassle, but as adults, we don't get the time to practice like kids, and a bigger board will really lessen the learning curve.

My feeling is surfing should be fun, and if you're getting frustrated..that's not fun. I'll wager yer buddy doesn't ride a LB, and may have some issues with LB'ers. It's all about the glide.....

[joshkava]

Hey Haoleboy,

I really appreciate your advice. That's what I was afraid of... now I'm sort of stuck with this board which wasn't cheap! I could always trade in for a LB and that might be what I'll have to do. Like I said, though, I live in NYC and my apt is like a closet. Also, my friend who, you're right, does not ride a LB, thought that with these quick crumbling waves here, thought that a funshape would be better.

you're right, though, it's all about fun and I did have fun on the longboards, that's what got me so stoked about surfing in the first place and this past week I did NOT have fun, it was frustrating and I was getting down on myself and thinking that I might not be cut out for surfing... it was a bummer.

This winter I was thinking about hitting a surf camp if I can save up the cash and bringing my board and if after a whole week of learning on it, if it was still too tough, I'd have to trade it in....

thanks, man.

Josh

[Rastro]

It's all about having fun and the stoke. Use your own judgement on what to ride. You really have to surf on what you want to surf on (even that will change as you get better). I have heard great things about the smaller Magic Model shapes. A local in Kauai told me it nose rode better than his longer boards. I would keep with it for a few more sessions and things might click. Try to stay positive and keeped stoked about learning. You will have to catch the waves a little later than on a 11' log. Another alternative if you want portability is the Bisect boards. They are more expensive but may be the ticket. A guy in NY has a web site and surfs a Bisect. Give it a look.
http://www.surfacemotion.com/
Keep us posted. Rastro.

[Rastro]

Go to the Surf and Bisect section of the site.
The other stuff about LongSkates is great too.