When we see clips of people surfing in California, the sun is out, reggae is in the air, and life is hunky-dory. The reality is kind of like that but the exact opposite.
Today, there are so many people in the water that surfing is one part recreation and nine parts opposition. Unlike a ski slope, there is room for only one person per wave; and like it
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How does a 3-4 foot well shaped wave peaking left and right with slight offshores sound to you? Well that's what we had to put up with this morning at "Threepoles" in the mid-coast. Unfortunately the girl declined to go out at as she was still suffering from the cold that I had passed on to her, so she had to be content to sit on the beach with her camera.
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This story is to inform all the surfers about the danger of surfboard fins. On June 4, 2000, Oahu got its 1st big south swell of the millennium. The south swell was affected by a storm near Tahiti that happened a week ago. The swell brought in 4 - 6 ft surf with some 8+. Many surfers adventured out to the south shores of Oahu to ride and challenge the big waves. It was indeed a huge surf day for the TOWN. With Waikiki being the famous tourist destination, many beginners protruded to the ocean to surf the gift of mother nature. Since June 4th, there were about 25 rescues each day to June 6th. Many lifeguards were busy trying to rescue the surfers, including those who were experienced.
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As I pulled into the near deserted car park I just new that the conditions would be terrible. I stopped, turned the ignition off and turned down the blaring live rendition of Jeremy by Pearl Jam. I caught myself expressing my frustration with a single all encompassing and frequently used surfing term "SHIT....". I couldn't believe it. I had been working what felt like non-stop for the past two weeks. ...
It was about 8:00 am and I finally made my way to signing on my computer glass of OJ in hand. It has become a ritual I suppose in this day of technology that every morning I follow the same path. Get up, get my juice, log on, and pray for waves as I check the daily report from my favorite site. I am very lucky for one thing; a local surf shop runs a fantastic report with a forecast updated usually 3 times a day including photos and input. On this day, unfortunately, the forecast was flat. Oh well, another positive to the sight is the letters section so I click the link to see what the latest word is. Like to read the letters from time to time, always entertaining to hear what others are thinking or to see what local events are happening. ...
It was just another day at the beach in New England. I awoke Saturday morning to a pallid, milk-white sky that was seemingly unable to decide whether to rain or snow. Full of hope and giddy energy, I loaded my gear into the car and struck out towards the water. As I rolled up to the overlook at the local break, I was greeted by a sweeping expanse of gray, foreboding ocean, as flat as the Great Salt Lake. ...
Another south swell had called me away from work. I arrived late, dusk, and had to hurry to beat the darkness (I hear Jaws music once the sun goes down).
Parking my car, I noticed a machine in the middle of the lot, a bloody parking meter!
First, they paved the place; now they’re charging for the “service.” It’s like one of those bums who washes your windshield at the intersection and expects yo
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I am a surfer from North Carolina. The southern outer banks have been my stompoing grounds since i rode a morey aussie fluorescent orange boogie board as a kid in the surf off of sportsman's pier in atlantic beach. The waves i came to find in north carolina are only good at certain times and seldomly consistent for more that a few weeks in the fall. It was with this frustrating knowledge that i chose to study for six months in a place I knew would have waves. I enrolled in a study abroad program that sent me to Bond University located in Robina, Queensland on the Gold Coast of Australia.
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