Christopher "Crib" Butler is a surfer, skateboarder, and snowboarder living in Northern California. He was born and raised in Southwest Ohio (Colerain Township) near the Indiana and Kentucky borders and started skateboarding street-style in the mid-1980s. As a child, he always dreamed of one day learning to surf and snowboard, but there were no mountains or ocean within a thousand miles. All hi ...
[After I gave Cheyne Horan’s Speech, for winning the QuikSilver ASP Masters (under 40) in France; because Cheyne asked me to and he couldn’t be there. I started my Save Sunset Beach speech, that I couldn’t finish at the 1999 ASP Party in Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaii. It was my fault they cut me off, because Rabbit Bartholomew said, I could say something short for Surfrider (but he stressed that it had to be short). Ever since I knew Rabbit (for over 15 years) he was Always into Helping Surfrider. John Shimooka also said it had to be short. I should of said, this speech aint that short, but it aint that long, but I think it’s Very Important and Worth Hearing. ...
Philosophers have explained away nearly all of life’s paradoxes. But a recent meditation in a deserted Moroccan line-up led me to ponder the perplexities of relative perfection.
I learnt to surf while living in Bournemouth, the butt of many jokes for those fortunate enough to live near ‘good’ waves. But how do you define a ‘good’ wave and when does a wave reach the mythical status lavishly flaunted by the surf media as ‘perfect’?
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Winter had been the worst in recent memory. Granted, many comfortable days were spent in the sunny, 70-degree range--plus or minus; rain came only sparingly--and usually only briefly whispered, if at all; most San Diego County residents reveled in the fantastic “outdoor” weather we were receiving. ...
Ricky Grigg established himself in the '1960s as one of the best big wave surfers of the era. When most of surfing was still focused on noseriding Ricky's grace under pressure and stylish turns in the heavy surf of Hawaii lead him to the top of many lists of the greatest surfers of all time. He soon became recognized as the first true high performance big wave rider. ...
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