Big Wave Wipeouts

Big Wave is a relative term. There are waves, big waves and there are huge waves. If you are a huge wave rider, this article isn't for you. You've already got it figured out. But if you are a wave rider that wants to graduate to bigger stuff, or you are already on big waves, then these tips might help you endure. I use the word endure because no matter how much experience you have or how good your physical condition is, on those occasions when you eat it on the big one, you are in for a rough time of it. That said, there is plenty you can do to lessen the impact.



What's my idea of a big wave? Anything with 8-foot faces can get rough, but definitely 12-foot and above (5-foot Hawaiian style) can cause you a lot of grief. And like Fred Hemmings says in, "The Soul of Surfing," on thing that sets apart surfers from big wave riders is, "that they know deep in their conscious[ness] that huge surf can kill you." While the only two times I've gotten hurt pretty bad was in small shoulder high surf, my most terrifying and "near-death" experiences were in 8-12 foot surf (Hawaiian style) with 18-foot faces. That's a lot of water on your head. Read on for the tips.

1. Every experienced surfer will tell you, "Don't catch the first wave of a set." On a big swell day, when the sets come in there is likely to be five to seven waves in the set with the middle waves of the set being the biggest and breaking the farthest out. If you catch the first or second wave and eat it, all you have to look forward to is the biggest waves of the set coming down on your head. This can be a perilous, exhausting situation. How long can you hold your breath? I can tell you from experience, not long enough!
   
   
2. Get in really good shape. Running, biking, swimming, and aerobics are all ways to build up your cardiovascular system.
   
   
3. If it doesn't feel right, don't go. I mean, if you are on the shoreline sizing up the surf and you are scared to death, don't go. It's probably too much for you. But if you are only scared, as opposed to being REALLY scared, go ahead. You'll be fine.
   
   
4. On your paddle out, take a few dives to adjust to the water and pressure change. This will help get your mind and body ready for the real thing.
   
   
5. It doesn't matter much with a sponge, but if you are a stand-up surfer, when you begin the wipeout, kick your board out with a purpose. Get your board away from you to avoid getting it shoved up your rear or into your eye.
   
   
6. We use a tremendous amount of air and energy sprinting to catch a wave. When you see a set coming and you know your are going to go for one, start breathing deeply and pumping as much oxygen into your system as possible.
   
   
7. Big waves hold you down and keep you down. Don't panic. Relax and be as calm as possible. What goes down, must come up! Your time is coming.
   
   
8. Hold your nose! This keeps air from escaping. Try it.
   
   
9. When you come back up, be prepared to take as many fast deep breaths as you can before you take it on the head again.