Expression Session with Ricky Grigg

Ricky Grigg established himself in the '1960s as one of the best big wave surfers of the era. When most of surfing was still focused on noseriding Ricky's grace under pressure and stylish turns in the heavy surf of Hawaii lead him to the top of many lists of the greatest surfers of all time. He soon became recognized as the first true high performance big wave rider. While most surfers were traveling the world in search of waves Ricky was working on his Ph.D. in marine biology. His love for the ocean has guided him through his life and accomplishments. From free diving in Tahiti with the natives to becoming one of the United States first aquanauts Dr Ricky Grigg has seen and done it all. I spoke with Ricky recently and was able to catch up and get some insight from one of surfing's great watermen.



MB: When did you become interested in surfing?

RG: 1950


MB: How did you get started?

RG: I lived on the beach at Santa Monica. It was automatic.


MB: Who were your early influences? Heard your sister played an important role.

RG: Buzzy Trent, and yes my sister Robin who was the best girl surfer in California for a bunch of years.


MB: Growing up with an older sibling already established as a surfer, did you catch a lot of hazing from Robin and her friends?

RG: Oh sure, in fact, my sister used to call me a cretin: that was before I knew what it was. Nowadays, she is a little bit more civilized.


MB: What was the surfing scene like then? Early Malibu?

RG: No-one out, sometimes. A crowd was 5-10 guys.


MB: When did you first go to Hawaii?

RG: 1953


MB: What spot in the islands was the favorite then?

RG: Waikiki surf.


MB: What was the culture like over there for traveling surfers from the mainland?

RG: It was a life of a beachboy and the locals were super friendly. Paradise found.


MB: When did you first ride North Shore?

RG: 1958, winter


MB: In the early days of big wave riding there were many challenges due to equipment limitations and lack of experience. Is there any particular event or day you remember overcoming in this period?

RG: The first day or two at Waimea when I learned that you can't ride a Velzy bump board out there. Pat Curren shaped me an elephant gun 10'6 shortly thereafter.


MB: Was Pat Curren pretty much the premier big wave shaper of the time? Were there many underground Hawaiian shapers around?

RG: Pat Curren and Joe Quigg were the best of the first shapers of big wave guns. Back then Joe worked for Hobie, in Dana Pt., CA whereas pat was on the North Shore and a little bit more accessible.


MB: Did you ever experiment with shaping and designs?

RG: Yes, but that was a disaster.


MB: Tell me about the first day at outer reef Pipeline. Who was there?

RG: Greg Noll, Mike Hickey, and Bob Pike and me.


MB: Were you intimidated?

RG: Sure we were intimidated.


MB: What led you out?

RG: I spotted for those guys to help them get out by waving them into a lull. Then I went out. It took me about 6 tries before I finally made it. When I finally paddled into the lineup about 1/2 mile offshore, I said to Greg Noll "Now that we are out here, how do we get in?". I ended up swimming in after a horrendous wipeout in the inside section, about an 18ft barrel. I hit the bottom and was actually held on it while the wave crushed me. The next thing I knew I was ripped off the bottom and thrown up into the air. It cured me from riding the outside Pipe. It was my first and last time there in those kind of conditions.


MB: Of all the places you have traveled and surfed, would you say Hawaii remains your favorite?

RG: No, Indo and Tahiti are my favorites.


MB: You are considered one of the last true great watermen today. Do you feel surfing lead you to your involvement in the ocean, or the other way around?

RG: surfing definitely led to my involvement with the ocean becoming an oceanographer, a diver, a fisherman, a sailor, but after all of it, surfing is still the best part.


MB: Looking back now, what do you feel was the best decade to be a surfer?

RG: The sixties and early seventies when the boards first changed and before the crowds and all the hype.


MB: What is your opinion of tow-in surfing or even the running of big wave challenge events? Many say these events encourage surfers beyond the limit of their ability too quickly.

RG: I love the idea of tow-in surfing. It may draw people out too soon but that is up to them to understand. At 64, big time tow-in surfing is too heavy for me, so instead I go way out on my windsurfer and coast into the big ones way before they break, and of course jibe out of them before they do.


MB: What has been the biggest challenge you have faced in your life and career around the ocean?

RG: Probably getting a Ph.D. and being a research oceanographer which of course caused me to miss out on a lot of great surf. It is pretty hard to have it all; usually you have to give up something to optimize your life.


MB: Who do you feel is the most influential surfer today?

RG: Kelly Slater, who I feel is also the best surfer who ever lived.


MB: Where would you like to see surfing a few years from now?

RG: Surfers surfing more for the love of it and surf spots that somehow regulate the crowds. Maybe more expression sessions.


MB: Do you still get out often?

RG: Yes, I still surf a couple of times a week. Surfing keeps me in shape and it is like a weight-governor. Even a couple of pounds too heavy and you start missing waves, so if I get overweight I immediately stop eating for a day or two.


MB: What is your local spot today?

RG: I usually surf Sunset in the winter and Waikiki spots in the summer.


MB: You have influenced countless others, been in the surfers poll, movies, etc. Do you still get recognized in the line up? Feel the respect you deserve?

RG: Yes, in general I feel a lot of respect in the water, however, there are always a few agros, often from Brazil or Australia who don't respect anyone, who need to read Nat Young's new book. Overall I find surfing to be pretty mellow, but I do try and avoid the crowds.


MB: Any advise for today's surfers?

RG: Keep surfing at all costs, and be courteous to other surfers.


MB: How would you like to be remembered in surfings history?

RG: as the guy who first started hot-dogging Big Surf in Hawaii.


MB: I cannot thank you enough for your time Rick. Truly been a pleasure
chatting with you.

RG: No problem.