Pearling

[Cramer]

Hey surfers,
I live in Hawaii and usually ride a '6 "5 board. When I ride it i feel so controlled and so safe. About 3 of my buds all ride '8 "6 long boards and give me a hard time as a joke. They call my board a sub-water whippersnapper. I always tell them, "i could ride a longboard if I wanted to but i just don't feel like it.
One day, I was out with my buds and the surf was mere 2ft.They were cutting, cross stepping hanging ten and having a great time. My tinny Channin and me were a different story. Barley 5 sec. rides and I was pushing my board down to the sand.
I took this as an opportunity to prove to my buds that I could ride a long board but that I just didn't want to. So I hopped on one of their logs and took my first wave. NOT BAD. I was cutting and getting an endless ride. I had such a good time on that tiny surf that i decided to borrow my friend's board and take it to some steeper, bigger surf.
It took me a little longer to get out that morning that usual because of the duck diving factor but I eventually got out.
First wave of the day. My expectations were so high, and i couldn't WAIT to show off. Here it comes, a beautiful perfectly shaped 4 footer. I began to paddle, and was amazed that i had practically matched the speed of the wave. As i began to drop in i felt some lag. I looked to the front of my board but to see it submerged under the water. Never having pearled on a long board, I took it the same way I would on a short board and dove off to the side.
I woke up the next day in a hospital not remembering what happened. The nurse told me that i had been hit in the head by my board and had gotten 25 staples. I couldn't believe it. I was out for the rest of the season. DAMN!
That was last year. And although they have caused me so much pain, I ended up buying my own longboard and absolutely love it. Not only do I now respect longboarders, but also I envy them.

ALOHA- Cramer

[Michael]

Wow, great story.
I am glad you have discovered longboarding.
Longboarding often gets bashed by shortboarders and beginners. It's simply a different way/attitude of surfing. It's not a sport for beginners etc. as many may think. With longboarding you can ride more waves and get more surf in small swell areas. A longboard may be easier to stand on, but it takes a lifetime (or less) to perfect it and get some style.

Saying all this I also respect shortboarding and it gives you some pretty awsome stoked adrenaline sessions on big waves. Using a gun on a 8+ wave will guarantee a stoked session.

Just my thoughts on the subject

Michael

Edited by: Michael

[Duck]

Wow Cramer,

That was a good story!! Shortboard, Longboard, Bellyboard, Boogieboard, it don't matter, just as long as your having fun!!!

Hasta,

Duck

[AquaBoy]

Great story Cramer. Its cool to find people who view things like I do. Surfing is surfing, whether its a bodyboarding, shortboarding, longboarding, or bodysurfing. Along that note, I have a story thats kind of similar. I learned to shortboard in Hawaii and was having a ball. The waves were great and despite being beaten to a pulp my the waves, I started to get the hang of it. Back home in NJ, a couple of my friends bodyboard and wanted me to surf with them. Unlike Hawaii and Cali surfers and bodyboarders and swimmers all have seperate areas in which they are allowed to go. (Pretty cheesy)

Anyway I kind of had a slight prejudice about spongers as some surfers do, but I wanted to hang with my buds so I went bodyboarding with them. Man I fell in love with it. It came sooo natural to me. I learned how to do an ARS, forward spin and reverse in my first session!!! :cool:

My brah's were so stoked for me and I was stoked just to be there and surf with them. One of my friends said, "See we spongers aren't so bad" I had to agree. I picked up my own set of fins and board and now I'm a full on sponger and proud of it. :D Kinda of weird huh? Usually you go from bodyboarding to surfing, but I went backwards. My mom always said I was weird ;)

[hulagirl]

Aloha Cramer,
I liked your story. Believe me, it is worth every one of these 25 stiches to become a longboarder. I am not saying it is the best for everyone but longboarding is special and deserves a try for everyone who loves surfing. I think the ultimate would be to be able to have a quiver that has the board for every break. Let,s face it - a longboard is not for every break and not for everyones personal style.
I wish you well for more of those endless rides. I doubt you will be pearling again too soon, just ride from the back and get that speed before you get too close to the nose.
Hulagirl